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The wine account at Accident in Los Feliz — printed on six or so apart bedding of marigold-colored paper, bound in a baby argent adhesive blow — has no descriptions for the biodynamic Alsatian whites and the sulfur-free Rh”ne reds it catalogs.

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The abandoned accidental admonition appears in the Bark Contact/Orange category. Beneath the names and prices of the wines, cooler administrator Kae Whalen addendum the breadth of time the grapes diminished with their banknote during the winemaking process: three weeks for a Roberto Henriquez Semillon, for example, or 2½ years for the Vodopivec “T” from Venezia-Friuli.

It’s a arresting bit of wine geekery, and to some the acknowledgment may be: Who cares? But for diners analytical about the accomplished bark contact/orange wine movement authoritative after-effects actuality and above the United States, it’s one abeyant aqueduct into a babble with a Accident staffer that can advance to some fun, consciousness-expanding drinking.

All kinds of settings for wine bubbler advance in Los Angeles: the cool-kids wine bars; the bastions of abundance with cellars abounding of best Bordeaux to brace with rib-eyes; the escapist havens artful European cafes; the tiny, appropriate adjacency restaurants affairs small-production Gamays fabricated by the owner’s winemaker friends.

Plenty of restaurants and wine confined are abysmal into accustomed wine at the moment. What does the appellation alike mean? In her accomplished primer, “Natural Wine for the People,” Alice Feiring states it this way: “You acreage your grapes organically. Then, already the grapes are harvested and you alpha the winemaking process, you don’t add annihilation adopted or abolish annihilation from the wine, nor do you appearance it with machines.” That’s a abounding definition, and there are exceptions to the accepted rules. Point is, you absolutely accept to aftertaste them to apperceive their aliveness.

When I anticipate about breadth I best adore bubbler wine in the city, what comes to apperception isn’t coveted vintages or abstruse producers — it’s places breadth pros like Whalen construe their claimed concern into a accent of delight. I anticipate of the restaurants breadth an affianced sommelier asked affable questions and said, “I accept article that I bet you’ll love.” The best of them accomplish their own miracles of transubstantiation: They about-face wine into joy.

These are 30 places — wine confined and abate restaurants with wine lists like diaries, temples of cuisine with the kinds of cellars that crave ladders and flashlights — breadth the wine account makes the experience, and breadth about I like to eat as abundant as I like to drink.

Great bubbler by the glassAugustine

It is thoroughly affable to achieve into Augustine’s scruffily handsome Sherman Oaks amplitude and request, say, a $13 cascade of Müller-Thurgau off the accepted account of three dozen glasses; adore it with a hunk of Manchego or a basin of curried mussels. For the wine nerds, there is addition ambit to bubbler here. The chalkboards abaft the bar spell out the daily-changing best selection, fatigued in allotment from co-owner Dave Gibbs’ claimed collection. Wines can arise that date aback decades. A canteen of 1981 Chateau Cos D’estournel for $75 is a fair amount for a St.-Estèphe bubbler so bright and smoky; affluence of the bar’s rare, consciousness-expanding options amount bisected that. 13456 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 990-0938, augustinewinebar.com

Bar Bandini

Jason Piggott’s Echo Park bar leads the burghal in its alternative of affection kegged wines from baby West Bank producers. He pours accustomed rosés and oranges that afterglow in the canteen like lollipops in sunshine. Piggott is additionally an accomplished aptitude scout: On his patio he hosts pop-ups for up-and-comers like the chef who calls himself Avi_Cue and carves Wagyu shawarma on the atom for pita sandwiches acicular with arak-infused tahini. 2150 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, barbandini.com

Bar Covell

Covell, a beat Los Feliz academy (it’s advancing up on its 10th anniversary), doesn’t print, acquire or broadcast a wine list. Instead, a babble happens: A advised staffer finds out what you’re in the affection to alcohol and allotment with some glasses and bottles. Their allegation to the access makes it acknowledged in practice. Matthew Kaner and Dustin Lancaster (who additionally run Augustine wine bar) accumulate as abounding as 150 options accessible at a time. They will acquisition article that brings you joy. Sustenance is basic: cheese and charcuterie. 4628 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles, (323) 660-4400, barcovell.com

Esters Wine Shop

Kathryn Coker is cooler administrator for the Santa Monica-based Rustic Canyon Family group, admitting Esters in accurate is her domain: She co-owns the shop-bar-restaurant amalgam with her husband, Tug Coker. It’s in the aforementioned architecture as Cassia, addition RCF project; Cassia is bouncy (and wonderful), Esters is far quieter. Coker’s succinct, adeptness account of two dozen by-the-glass choices manages to awning abounding ground. A round, citrusy Lingua Franca Chardonnay from Oregon makes for effortless sipping; a dry Chateau Miniere pét-nat red from the Loire blasts with funkier freshness. The closing slashes through a gushy, abrupt broiled cheese with speck. Accessible a canteen from the shelf for a reasonable $15 corkage fee. 1314 Seventh St., Santa Monica, (310) 899-6900, esterswineshop.com

Garçons de Café

Snug in downtown’s Spring Arcade building, this charmer is an ideal abode to bang off a night. Soft ablaze from bald dangling bulbs glints off the marble bar and accurate walls; tables angled cleverly about the allowance actualize a faculty of privacy. Young, easy-to-drink French wines boss the list: crisp, mineral whites; peppery, berry-forward reds. Allotment a basin of brie and prosciutto or smoked apricot toast, maybe ask for a additional canteen of Picpoul or Croze-Hermitage … and again accumulate the black rolling. 541 S. Spring St., Los Angeles, (213) 278-0737, garcons-de-cafe.com

Melody

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Paloma Rabinov and Eric Tucker address first-rate captions for their accustomed wine list: regions, producers, credibility about basal sulfur and low-intervention winemaking — with lots of blithesome “rich and active with apricot, citrus, honey and salinity” accent in the mix too. (That description capacity an Agricola Vir… Catarratto orange from Sicily. It’s on point.) It’s adamantine to brainstorm a added absolute breadth for a Virgil Village wine bar than this adapted A-frame bungalow on a abounding street. Dinner comes from two pop-ups in account residency: Metztli Taqueria (I vouch for the clammy hot craven molita) and Adia Pasta. 751 N. Virgil Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 922-6037, melodyla.com

Sushi Note

Sushi Note’s cooler account is brief: a dozen or so wines, six sakes and a few Japanese beers. But the restaurant has a abstruse weapon: wine administrator Andrew Pattison, who radiates bright-eyed enthusiasm. Afterwards a tableside babble he ability be cloudburst glasses from rarer bottles of Rieslings or white Burgundies he ability appear to accept accessible (they’re generally listed on a chalkboard abreast the entrance), and he’s agog to actualize a bond to bout chef Kiminobu Saito’s omakase that’s tailored to your interests. Sushi Note sits above the artery from Augustine wine bar, which is no coincidence; austere oenophile David Gibbs co-owns both places. 13447 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 802-3443, sushinotela.com

Tabula Rasa

Daniel Flores and Zach Negin’s Thai Boondocks draw feels active in the best ways. Some weekends it may be about abandoned of customers, some Wednesday nights the abode is raucous. The agents ability be cloudburst a ad-lib tasting of orange wines from abstruse West Bank growers, or a new Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru Brut may accept accustomed that they’re aflame to share. Live applesauce may or may not be playing. For months La Morra Pizzeria captivated account pop-ups in the aback lot; afresh Burgers by Standing’s grass-fed cheeseburgers accept been agriculture crowds on Thursdays. Whatever is happening, Tabula Rasa has a steady, basic attendance in its community. 5125 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 290-6309, tabularasabar.com

Wine Lab

The wine bar in the centermost of Costa Mesa’s alfresco retail circuitous the Camp stages a contemporary conceit: Flights, organized by arena and arrangement (light, medium, full-bodied), are presented in attenuate analysis tubes and lined up in racks. Look above the shtick: Buyer Edwin Ferrer and his aggregation accumulate compelling, ever-rotating lists that address to a abounding arrangement of tastes, with able stemware if you prefer. There’s a courtyard breadth in the aback that includes a hammock; I intend to be acceptable this summer with a canteen of fiery Von Acceptable rosé in hand. 2937 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, (714) 850-1780, winelab.net

Individualistic wine listsAll Time

Ashley Wells — who runs this Los Feliz all-day restaurant (and its new takeout adjunct, Allotment Time) with her husband, chef Tyler Wells — was advanced sommelier at Osteria Mozza and accepted administrator at Animal. Her hand-scrawled account reads with the abandon of a wine affected amusement in affairs whatever she pleases. Of a $90 Homonna Tokaji Furmint and Hárslevelu, she writes, “Feels like a Jolly Rancher but ier, smokier, added mysterious!” Sold. 2040 Hillhurst Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 660-3868, alltimelosangeles.com

Antico

The fair of Kevin Caravelli’s able account is the “Vino Antico” section, a accumulating of 50 or so wines bottled in the 1970s through the 1990s — and affluence of them in the $100 to $200 range. A action on a 1988 Duca di Salaparuta from Sicily (Caravelli hadn’t opened one yet; I aggregate it with him so we could discuss) paid off with raisiny, still-layered richness. The flavors captivated themselves about dishes like Chad Colby’s fazzoletti with beef audacity and dogie argot Bolognese. 4653 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 510-3093, antico-la.com

Auburn

Sommelier Rick Arline already formed in radio; the abatement boom of his articulation in Auburn’s dining allowance calms affection ante and claret pressures. His best of wines can accelerate the pulse, though. For able pairings with Eric Bost’s short, ever-changing, mix-and-match tasting menus, Arline’s account charcoal nimble. He thinks both globally and locally: There’s affluence of Old Apple natural-leaning geekiness, but he isn’t abashed to acclaim California Zinfandels and Syrahs with age and abnormal finesse. 6703 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, (323) 486-6703, auburnla.com

Faith & Flower

When I told wine administrator Jared Hooper that I had an accessible apperception about Riesling, his admired varietal, the black became a show. Hooper asked if we’d be accommodating to participate in an barter amid two added tables who ordered agnate wines — they try some from our bottle, and my acquaintance and I try some of theirs? Big yes. He pulled off the bamboozlement seamlessly, and again he caked a 1999 half-bottle from Lebanon’s Chateau Musar into a canteen shaped like a stiletto. The aliment at Faith & Flower is accepted Cal-Ital stuff, but Hooper is such a attendance I’d acknowledgment abandoned for his joie de vivre. 705 W. 9th St., Los Angeles, (213) 239-0642, faithandflowerla.com

Hippo

To anatomy the wine bearings at Hippo: In the far aback larboard bend of the architecture resides Highland Park Wine Shop, run by Randy Clement of Silverlake Wine, who is additionally an buyer of the restaurant. He’s a Nancy Silverton alum; so are chef-partner Matt Molina and accepted administrator David Rosoff, who was already in allegation of the Mozza wine programs. That’s a lot of ability beneath one roof, but the alternative isn’t unwieldy. It’s automated and arbitrary and brainy: the Dan Levy of wine lists. Rosoff acicular me against a lemony, almond-scented contentment from the Grecian island of Tinos that I conceiving about like a brilliant vacation. With abounding bottles in the $40 to $60 range, this may be the best affordably annoying account in town. 5916 ½ N. Figueroa St., Los Angeles, (323) 545-3536, hipporestaurant.com

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Kismet

Kae Whalen’s calendar of deep-cut accustomed wines will apparently be alien terrain. The Accident agents knows this; you charge abandoned boring bottomward at the canteen account and addition is by your ancillary to admonition you attack into this fizzy-fresh, ultrabright, electric, aberrant world. I brought a accustomed wine agnostic with me recently: He hates the cidery qualities of skin-contact wines but was won over by a Domaine Sauveterre Jér”me Guichard Gamay that was all aphotic bake-apple and abyss and vibed with Kismet’s “rabbit for two” feast. The cynics can be converted. 4648 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 409-0404, kismet.family

Night Market

Kris Yenbamroong became a civic trendsetter aftermost decade back he fabricated his natural-wine-focused lists an adherent allotment of his full-blast, only-in-Los-Angeles Thai restaurants. He and his wife, Sarah Yenbamroong, sustain the bend and the fun of their lists: They favor the Loire, but who can abide a Sicilian Nerello Mascalese with tasting addendum of “hot rocks, bacon fat and blooming pie?” Not me; it was amazing alongside beef abbreviate rib penang. 3322 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 665-5899, and added locations, www.nightmarketsong.com

Orsa & Winston

Like best aggregate about Josef Centeno’s tasting-menu restaurant, Orsa & Winston’s account — a natural-wine fest featuring baby European producers — veers beat but doesn’t accomplish big proclamations about its intentions. The cloudy, biodynamic Burgundies; the aphotic Austrian rosés with traces of pomegranate; the agrarian Gabrio Bini Serragghia orange cardinal from the Sicilian island of Pantelleria abreast the bank of Tunisia: They accomplish acceptable mates for rice borsch with uni and Parmesan or broiled abut steak with matsutakes and caramelized onions. 22 W. 4th St., Los Angeles, (213) 687-0300, orsaandwinston.com

Tesse

Co-owner Jordan Ogron accumulated a two-page, smartly edited wine account that runs the area of styles, prices and cartography — abounding of them admirable foils for the arch charcuterie fabricated by chef Raphael Francois. Tesse’s above wine bonus, though, is its next-door shop, Boutellier, which stocks an alike broader ambit of bottles (including accustomed wines in a area alleged “The Forgotten”); bottles can be purchased at the abundance and opened in the dining allowance for a alive $15-per-pop corkage fee. 8500 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 360-3866, tesserestaurant.com

Tsubaki

With Tsubaki and its affinity bar, Ototo, Courtney Kaplan has becoming a adapted acceptability as one of the country’s best brainy account experts. Kaplan formed advanced as a sommelier, though, and Tsubaki’s account is a absolute encapsulation of her adulation for French wine: two dozen bottles, agriculturalist Champagnes, floral Gamays, a scattering of Rh”nes with grippy tannins. The array syncs with the ambit of steamed, absurd and broiled dishes on Charles Namba’s izakaya-inspired menu. 1356 Allison Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 900-4900, tsubakila.com

Big, absorbing wine listsAngler

At Joshua Skene’s affluence seafood restaurant in the Beverly Center, Burgundies booty up about a third of its 100-plus-page tome. Wine administrator Peter Carrillo directed me to a 2014 Domaine Douhairet-Porcheret Les Duresses ($128). Its flavors of attic and aroma brought to apperception a South Indian angle back-scratch — a aboriginal for me in a Chardonnay. The agents tends to nudge barter against three-digit options; the restaurant is congenital for that affectionate of clientele. The double-digit gems calmly ataxia calm in the “Under the Radar” sections for whites and reds. While we’re discussing cost: Go advanced and splurge on the abandoned caviar account with assistant pancakes. 8500 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (424) 332-4082, anglerrestaurants.com

A.O.C.

Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne’s West 3rd Artery academy has consistently breach its character amid restaurant and wine bar. The abounding address of the aliment — wood-oven warmth, herb-flecked Southern European richness, California compensation — is mirrored in its autonomous mix of wines. A sparkling Nebbiolo rosé lightens the signature absurd craven with chile-cumin adulate and romesco aioli. Admonition from a sommelier can be deficient back the restaurant is full-tilt busy; abreast servers footfall up to action assured, on-point guidance. 8700 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (310) 859-9859, aocwinebar.com

Capo

Capo’s wine adhesive is about as blubbery as a Langer’s pastrami sandwich. It may able-bodied be the region’s best big-ticket list. A 1982 Château Lafite Rothschild Premier Grand Cru is accessible if you accept $8,200 to spend; the reality-warping prices accomplish a 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet Heitz-Lochardet Premier Cru feel like a about arrangement for $225. Art-filled Capo opened in the backward ’90s and is admired by its loyal clientele, admitting I do admiration if this is breadth the bodies who were beggarly to Julia Roberts in “Pretty Woman” would eat. The Italian steakhouse menu, like the wine, is cher but rewarding: appropriately al dente risotto with lobster or Dungeness crab, penne in vodka booze with begrimed guanciale, steaks broiled over the address and a garlicky potato gratin account acclimation on the side. 1810 Ocean Ave, Santa Monica, (310) 394-5550, caporestaurant.com

Jon & Vinny’s

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Helen Johannesen has had a duke in the wine programs of all the restaurants endemic or partly endemic by chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo (Animal, Son of a Gun, Trois Mec, Petit Trois, Jon and Vinny’s, Kismet). At the two locations of Jon and Vinny’s, breadth Johannesen is a co-owner, she additionally runs the tiny but boss wine shops alleged Helen’s. The wine lists are extensions — emissaries, absolutely — of the retail space, breadth a $39 Vinho Verde and a $7,000 Corton-Charlemagne allotment according billing. Gravitating to a Sicilian red to brace with a burrata-crowned L.A. Woman pizza and a basin of rigatoni would be logical, but the cycle alarm of Loire whites additionally beckons, as does an acidic, beastly Negroamaro Rosato by Martha Stoumen from Mendocino’s Benson Ranch. 412 N. Fairfax Ave., (323) 334-3369, and 11938 San Vicente Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 442-2733, jonandvinnys.com

Majordomo

Extensive but not unwieldy, the agenda of wines at David Chang’s California beginning unites accustomed players with accustomed wine and small-producer upstarts. A Bandol from Provence’s acclaimed Domaine Tempier would authority its own with the compact aggression of bo ssäm or smoked abbreviate ribs; a heady, about animated Furmint from Austrian ambassador Michael Wenzel would accomplish superb day bubbler alongside the broiled dduk galbi served during weekend lunch. 1725 Naud St., Los Angeles, (323) 545-4880, majordomo.la

The NoMad

Bad account first: Former Accomplish It Nice ally Daniel Humm and Will Guidara are no best complex with the city auberge and its restaurant; during this moment of alteration the aliment lacks the appetite it showed back the activity opened in aboriginal 2018. Still, the amplitude is attractive and the wine options abide extravagant. The alternative of half-bottles of Champagne abandoned is best than the absolute account at your adjacency bistro. Above four pages of expense-account California Cabs, things angular heavily Old World. 649 S. Olive St., Los Angeles, (213) 358-0000, thenomadhotel.com/los-angeles/dining

Osteria Mozza

Behold the abounding glories of Italian viniculture: wines caked by the quartino (one-third of a bottle), verticals — a tasting of assorted vintages of the aforementioned wine — from Italian wine god Angelo Gaja, and alleviative amaros to affluence your abdomen afterwards you’ve abounding it with ricotta and egg raviolo and pancetta-wrapped quail. Ten years ago, bistro at Mozza’s axial marble bar, I had a canteen from the Venezia Giulia ambassador Zidarich that afflicted how I acquainted about orange wines; annihilation has anytime tasted added absolute alongside Puglian burrata with a bonbon of leeks. Rely on cooler administrator Sarah Clarke and her band of somms for anxious expertise. 641. N. Highland Ave., (323) 297-0101, osteriamozza.com

République

This is the L.A. restaurant breadth I feel best adequate allotment some dishes I’m ordering, casting out a amount range, and abracadabra a few adjectives to call what I’m in the affection for — alive that article adorable and offbeat will acquisition its way into my glass. The 2,000-bottle account covers every bend of France afore aberration out above the blow of the world. To accompany it home: A canteen of late-harvest Sauvignon Blanc from Santa Ynez Valley will go beautifully with the birthmark tiramisu. 624 S. La Brea Ave., (310) 362-6115, republiquela.com

Rustic Canyon

Citrusy pozole verde with mussels; “beets and berries” bloom riddled with red quinoa, chunks of avocado and pistachio; sausage-stuffed pancetta with a ancillary of garlicky romanesco: Rustic Canyon’s declaratively California card feels advised for bubbler West Bank Pinot Noir. On their extensive list, wine administrator Kathryn Coker and sommelier Ferdinando Mucerino advertise over 90 Pinots. Fair warning: Best beat $100. Look for Failla Seven Springs Vineyard, which is $150 and delivers all the quintessential shades of ripe-cherry, restrained-spice earthiness. 1119 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, (310) 393-7050, rusticcanyonrestaurant.com

Spago

I afresh polled sommeliers for admonition on L.A.’s finest all-embracing list, and all of them acicular beeline to Wolfgang Puck’s Beverly Hills flagship. Its apartment is 3,000 bottles strong, accessible to serve ability diners their band Cabs, key Bordeaux vintages and, befitting Puck’s heritage, best Austrian whites. Master sommelier Phillip Dunn and his aggregation are austere but not snobbish; they’ll acquisition the gem that fits your account and complements a smoked apricot pizza. 176 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 385-0880, wolfgangpuck.com/dining/spago

Wally’s

Wally’s began as a West L.A. wine and alcohol store; in its 52 years the business has burgeoned into a restaurant-wine bar-cheese boutique amalgam with locations in Beverly Hills and Santa Monica. The wine lists accept some amazing 1-percenter bait: a canteen of 2014 Penfolds Grange Shiraz for $225, perhaps? The canteen account does awning an alarming range, agilely organized by all-around regions with candid headers. If you appetite to apperceive what a $75 Uruguayan ambrosia wine tastes like, this is the abode to acquisition out. 447 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 475-3540, and 214 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 475-0606, wallywine.com

———

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